Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Diwali Destination - ABBOTT MOUNT

ABBOTT MOUNT
The Clouds Beneath Your Feet

By Lesley A. Esteves

Not even the breathtaking vistas of the forested drive to Champawat District from Kathgodam can prepare you for the beauty that greets you in Abbott Mount. After long stretches of moss-covered deodar forests you finally reach Lohaghat on the banks of the Lohawati River. Leave Lohaghat’s crowded bazaar behind and, 6 km ahead at Marorakhan, a road climbs dramatically up through the clouds over 3 km, to the tiny settlement of Abbott Mount.

There are just 13 cottages spread across this hill, all built pre-Independence by John Harold Abbott of Jhansi, who named the hill for himself.

We drove straight down into the driveway of Snow View Cottage, unchanged since the time Abbott first built it. Deodars, pears and a solitary walnut graced the grounds. We stepped out of the car and there they were — the Himalaya stretched across the horizon. Kalyanji, the caretaker at Snow View, pointed out the peaks — Trishul, Maiktoli, Nanda Kot, Nanda Ghunti, the majestic Nanda Devi. He tried to point out the Pindari Glacier, but the clouds rose too fast. Beneath our feet, the bowl of the Soar Valley was filled with clouds. It was for this special view that Abbott chose this particular mount that towers above the neighbouring hills. And which affords the visitor the pleasure of sipping tea in a garden while watching the clouds float by, beneath her feet. After the sun set and it was pitch dark, we still sat facing the mountains, clustered around a bonfire under the walnut tree. The fireflies turned the deodars into Christmas trees; the brandy travelled all the way down to our toes. And, all the while, Kalyan’s sister told us tall tales of leopards and ghosts in the surrounding

WHERE TO STAY AD EAT

Snow View Cottage (Tel: 05965-234169; Tariff: Rs 3,000 for the cottage) was built by the original Abbott nearly a 100 years ago. At some point, it passed to Nepal royal Shamsher Rana and is now owned by charming hosts Gogi and Kiran Sandhu. The well-appointed cottage is perfect for taking maximum advantage of the phenomenal views. There are picture windows on all sides and massive sofas in which you can lounge as you gaze open-mouthed at the peaks. The caretaker Kalyanji prepares wholesome meals with vegetables from the cottage’s own patch.

Abbott Mount Cottage (Tel: 235421; Tariff: Rs 3,000) is another of Abbott’s 13 lovely cottages, offering three rooms, laundry and a cook who makes all meals, not included in the tariff, which is for the entire cottage.

For more details visit : http://www.abbottmount.com/
and http://abbottmountcottage.com/

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